DIY, East Bay, Life

Pake C’Mute Frame Up Bike Build – Derailleurs, Chain, and Shifters

Shimano-Dura-Ace-Bar-End-Shifters FI

Part 7 – Derailleurs, Chain, and Shifters

Shimano 105 Rear Derailleur

Missed last week’s post? Check it out here.

Based on my gearing, I needed to complete the drivetrain with capable components that would allow for the wide range of gear changes. I decided to get proven quality in the rear derailleur and selected the Shimano 105 RD-5700 in silver finish. The Shimano 105 line has been a longtime favorite of everyone from commuters to touring riders. The front derailleur is somewhat less important but still needs to make the jump from the 34-50T sprocket. I found a great deal on the SRAM Rival 10-Speed, although I needed to get a shim that would take the 31.8mm clamp size down to the 28.6mm tube size on the Pake frame. Chain selection was relatively easy – I was shooting for a silver 10-speed compatible option. The SRAM PC 1051 P-Lock (114 links) got great reviews and included the powerlink to connect the chain after I adjusted the length. And finally, the shifters. Being that the Pake came with every imaginable option available, I debated between downtube shifters, brifters (brake and shifters combined), and barcon shifters (bar end shifters). After some research, brifters were too expensive and seemed to break quite often (requiring complete replacement of the brake/shifter). I then ruled out the downtube shifters as I preferred to have both of my hands on the handlebars when trying to shift at high speeds. I opted for the industry standard Shimano Dura Ace Bar End Shifters that came with all the pods, cable stops, cables, housing, ect.

Shimano Derailleur Cable Kit Shimano 105 Rear Derailleur

Installation of the parts was pretty straight forward. The only part that needed some clarification was determining proper chain length. There are a few ways to figure this out, so I recommend you head over to Park Tool and read about the different methods (check it out here). I opted to use the method that involved setting the chain on the biggest sprockets and adding a few links to account for the derailleur. Here is an excerpt from the Park Tool website:

Chain Sizing – Largest Cog and Largest Chainring Method

An alternative method for determining chain length for new chains is to use the largest size sprockets on the bike. It is easiest to size the chain without threading it through the derailleur.

  1. Remove the old chain (if present).

  2. Shift the front derailleur over the largest chainring, and the rear derailleur on the smallest cog.

  3. Thread the new chain through the front derailleur. It is not necessary to thread the chain through the rear derailleur at this point. Simply wrap the chain around the largest front chainring and around the largest rear cog.

  4. Pull the chain tight, and note the closest rivet where the two could be joined. Keep in mind a chain can only be joined by mating inner and outer plates.

  5. From the closet rivet, lengthen the chain by counting over an additional two rivets (two links), which is a distance of one-inch. Cut the chain at this point.

  6. Remove the chain from the bike and thread it through both derailleurs and join the ends.

MASTERLINK NOTE: If the bike chain uses a “master link”, it is necessary to account for the link. Install one-half of the master link on one side of the chain. Size the chain by cutting the other end of the chain.

Be sure you measure twice and cut once — my chain only came with one replacement pin.

SRAM Rival Road Front Derailleur
The installation of the front derailleur requires installing the shim for the post and then aligning the derailleur over the chainring. Make sure the outer cage is parallel with the large chainring and that it barely clears the largest chainring when pulled over the top of the chainring. The clearance should be somewhere between 1-3mm (or about the thickness of a penny).

Shifter Cable Stops Shimano Dura Ace Bar End Shifters

The shifters and cables went on easily, although I needed to buy the CN-10 cable cutter and crimping tool from Park in order to get clean cuts (I also used it for the brake install). Because I decided to go with bar end shifters over downtube shifters, I installed the cable stops onto the downtube bosses that were included in the Shimano Dura Ace kit. As with the brake cables, try to minimize the bend of the cables and check for any binding issues by turning the wheels and watching the cable path.

Go through your standard derailleur tuning process to get the indexing right and we’re ready to start fine tuning the bike.

Build Weight Totals
Pake C’Mute Frame – 2551 grams
Pake C’Mute Fork – 1030 grams
Wheelset – 1814 grams
Tires – 500 grams
Inner tubes – 180 grams
Saddle – 330 grams
Seatpost – 285 grams
Crankset and Bottom Bracket – 865 grams
Cassette – 252 grams
Headset – 119 grams
Stem – 137 grams
Handlebars – 325 grams
Brake Cable Hanger  – 26 grams
Brake Levers – 284 grams
Brake Cable Kit – 214 grams (uncut)
Cantilever Brakes – 344 grams
Rear Derailleur – 227 grams
Front Derailleur – 100 grams
Chain – 304 grams
Shifters – 276 grams

Next week we tackle the pedals and bar tape

Pake C’Mute Frame Up Bike Build – Derailleurs, Chain, and Shifters